CUBA, May 2011

Wow!  What a trip and an education.  It's too bad that this country has been closed off to the US for so long, but consequently some place that hasn't been consumed by US tourism.  We went down on a humanitarian trip in which we took medical and other needed supplies which were donated to a church.  Fortunately, it is in this way that americans can now get a chance to visit Cuba.  There also are educational tours that are allowed.   You just have to find a tour group that has a license to go.  I was lucky enough to be able to go as an 'escort' with my mother who travels frequently with a seniors group.

We had an excellent tour and guide.  We learned so much about the country, culture, and way of life there.  There is so much history and incredible Spanish colonial architecture, although most of the buildings are in pretty bad condition.  However, little pieces of capitalism are popping up and you can see a building here and there that has been renovated, evidence of the recent changes in policy.   My mother just made a second trip this November and saw even more improvements.  So things seem to be moving rather quickly now.
May seemed to be a much better time to go.  Apparently November is high tourist season, and was significantly more crowded. 


view from pool deck at Parque Central Havana

 The food in general is far from great in my opinion, however, the music and entertainment in most restaurants is incredible as one would imagine.  The high end hotels are nice, but don't expect a 5 star hotel to be on par with a 5 star in the states.  I didn't get to check out different hotels as I usually try to do because we were limited with time and our pretty fast paced tour schedule.   In Havana, we stayed at the Parque Central in Downtown.  I'm guessing it's safe to say this is one of the nicer hotels there.   Rooms were comfortable, fairly luxurious bathroom, staff was friendly and helpful, gorgeous lobby, with bar and restaurant, and I think there is a business center also, along with a travel office.  The roof top pool gives you a great view of the city.

 If you happen to stay here I would ask for an upper level room on the Prado side (this is the walk that goes from the park to the Malecon) or one with a park view.   This will give you a better view and less street noise.  If you open your window or balcony doors you will immediately notice the pollution, most likely from the exhaust of all the old vehicles.  But it's so cool to be there looking out over the city, you get over it.

As you might guess, you definitely want to drink bottled water.  In fact, the water system is so old in Havana Vieja (that's old Havana), that the water has to be trucked in.  So it kinda makes you wonder what the restaurants do when they run out, which they did during our dinner there one night.  Not sure I want to think about it, but everything seemed to be okay, and no one got sick at that point.

 



Renovated buildings in Plaza Vieja



Eleven of the 15 people in our tour group did get sick the evening that we checked into the GranHotel Iberostar  in Trinidad de Cuba, and we blamed it on the food or food handlers. It could have been from a roadside lunch that day, but our guess was from dinner at the hotel.   That was the only incident of that nature, but several people were severly sick for a day or two, and some even longer.  I was not crazy about the hotel there, the rooms themselves were very nice, but many of them in the back faced a big giant wall.  If you happen to end up at this hotel DEFINITELY make sure you ask for a room with a veranda that faces the square.   We switched to one of these and were infinitely happier.   The best part of Trinidad for me was not so much the Valley of the Sugar Mills tour as was the party that takes place on the central stairs of the city with live music and dancing.   That was fabulous entertainment, and the men will make you get up and dance, which makes for a great time.

Anything you get to see in Cuba is worth the trip, but here are some sights of note:
Ernest Hemingway Estate, The Revoluntionary Museum in the former Presidential Palace, Havana Vieja, as well as the other plazas,  Museo de la Ciudad, The Malecon, the Hotel Nacional (if you're not already staying there, many tour groups do) and even taking a look at the Riviera Hotel.  And of course you can't miss all of the old 50's vehicles.
For some real insight into the Batista, Meyer Lansky and night club era of Havana, I suggest the book Havana Nocturne, by T.J. English.  It's a great way to get much of the history in a super interesting read.   

Some things to note about Havana:  The hustlers in front of the hotels can be pretty aggressive.  I did walk down the streets at night and felt farily safe, but I'm used to a big city and don't scare too easy.  Some may not feel as comfortable about it, although everyone will tell you it's relatively safe, but that's something to guage for yourself.  If you are a female traveler, definitely be prepared for attention from the male locals, and at night, maybe too much to feel comfortable. 

Restaurants recommended by some - Restaurante el Template, La Imprenta (both in old Havana)

BEACHES:
And finally, the beaches.  Well, needless to say this was not a beach tour.   However, I will always do my best to get to a beach if there is one to be found.  
One of the nicest I saw was when we ventured out on our own one afternoon and took a taxi to Playa Ancon.  This was not included on our tour, but was an idyllic spot and I wish I could have spent more time here.   There is a hotel situated there used by the locals, I believe it's the Cubanacan.

Playa Ancon

  



Playa Santa Maria - about 30 minutes by local bus ride from Havana.  Okay, so it's a beach, but for me, nothing of special to note there. 

Playa Santa Maria



Varadero - This is supposed to be the resort area of Cuba.  We did not get to go here and did not have the time to see it.  But it is definitely a goal for the future.  Although I hear it is very touristy, but that's not always so bad.

Lennon Park in Havana

Art work of Lennon by Alexandra Quevedo